How the Art Deco movement changed the course of jewellery design

Hyderabad: Coined during Exposition Internationale des Arts Décoratifs et Industriels Modernes, held in Paris in 1925, the term Art Deco refers to the iconic movement that led to a dramatic transformation in women’s fashion during the era. The movement also had a huge impact on the jewellery styles and put an emphasis on geometric simplicity to create spectacular pieces.

Rendered in bold combinations of precious stones such as rubies, jade, sapphire, emerald, and lapis lazuli, Art Deco jewellery was carved with arabesque floral Persian motifs. Inspired by different cultures around the world, including India and China, the Art Deco Movement advocated for the use of unconventional materials, techniques, and combinations.

Employing platinum and lacquer as common materials, the creation of Art Deco jewellery also involved techniques of invisible setting and gem cutting. The movement also resulted in pearl jewellery becoming quintessential for chic fashion. Unprecedented combinations such as lapis lazuli with gold and carnelian with turquoise were also incorporated into designs.

The Art Deco movement continued its momentum owing to several jewellery brands that were highly influenced. Top jewellery houses such as Cartier, Van Cleef & Arpels, Fouquet, Raymond Templier created a myriad of individual pieces as well as parure in the Art Deco style. Some of these highly popular creations came in the form of tassel necklaces, detailed dangling earrings, pearl pieces, brooches, and bracelets, amongst others. The movement also witnessed the production of other exotic and finer goods for daily use, such as lacquered silver boxes, smoking accessories or beauty cases.

The Art Deco movement was also spearheaded by a host of international celebrities who were head over heels with the class, chic, comfort of the jewellery pieces. The “style moderne”, as it was also called, was endorsed by the likes of Daisy Fellowes, Elsa Schiaparelli, and Coco Chanel, the legendary French fashion icon. Famous for her timeless designs, Chanel famously said that “a woman needs ropes and ropes of pearls”.

Decades later, the Art Deco style in jewellery continues to serve as inspiration for different brands. Vintage Art Deco pieces from the era of its prominence continue to be highly sought after by the season jewellery collectors.

Jay Sagar
Jewellery Expert
AstaGuru
Auction House